Tailor s measure



(No Model.)

J. R. BEGHTEL. TAILORS MEASURE.

No. 305,501. Patented Sept; 23, 1884.

N. ?ETERS, Pholu'Lilhugnpben wanmmm. D. C.

U irED STATES P TENT @rrrcr JOHN R. BEOHTEL, OF READING, PENNSYLVANIA.

TAILORS MEASURE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 305,501, dated September 23, 1884.

' Applicatlon filed May 7, 1884. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern.- I

Be it known that I, JOHN R. BEOHTEL, a citizen of the United States, resident at the city of Reading, county of Berks, State of Pennsylvania, have invented a new and useful Improvement in Tailors Measures, of which the following is a specification. This invention pertains more particularly to that class of measures intended to be applied to the body preliminary to the measurement of the same with the usual tape-line.

The object of the invention is to simplify the art of cutting and fitting of dresses or suits by the use of the measure herein described as a base for the usual tape-measurements, subsequently transferring the same from the measure upon the goods to be made up, the

whole operation being so simple that any tailor acquainted with the mode of application and measurement cannot fail in everyinstance of securing a good fit.

The drawings accompanying this specification and forming a part of the same fully disclose the nature of my improvement, like letters and figures indicating like parts and points throughout.

Figure 1 is a back view of a person, showing the application of the measure to establish the first points. Fig. 2 is a front view showing the measure secured around the body to establish the front side or breast mark. Fig. 3 is a rear view showing the establishment of the back or scye mark. Fig. 4 shows the measurements from the collar-seam to the scye or back mark and from the back to the front or side breast-mark. Fig. 5 shows the measurements from the shoulder-seam to the front or side breast-mark. Fig. 6 is an elevation of the measure.

A represents the blade of the measure; A, a buckle, and A a strap attached to the same; B, an arm at right angles with the blade; B, a plumb-line marked thereon; G, a curved connection between the arm and upper end of the blade; 0, a central notch in the outer edge of same; D, a triangular aperture, and E a light plumb-bob.

The measure may be constructed of any light and flexible material that will admit of its easy application to the body, and may have inches or any arbitrary marks upon its edges.

A buckle at one end of the blade and a strap at the other provide for its retention around the body, and the plumb-line, (marked upon the arm 13,) in connection with the plumb-bob, insures the proper location of the breast and back marks or points.

The use of the invention is as follows: The person to be measured stands, coat buttoned, in his natural position, with'his back toward the operator, who applies the measure with its plain edge on a line with the back-seam, the head of the blade at the collar-seam and in a perpendicular position. Placing his left hand upon and firmly holding the same in place, he marks with his right hand the points 1 at the collar, and 2, 3, and 4. upon the shoulder-scam. He then advances to the front of the person, and buckling the measure around his body in the position shown in Fig. 2, with the rightangled 'short blade B against the persons arm, and shifting the position of the measure so as to come close up to the armpits, and with the line B upon the short arm of the measure coincident with the line of the plumbbob, the point 5, at the intersection of the short and long arm in the triangular aperture, is marked upon the coat; then, passing again behindthe person, the point 6 is marked upon the back-seam above the blade A, or a cross, if wearing a sackcoat without a seam. The above six points being marked, the measure is unbuckled and laid aside. The operator now takes his tape in hand and first measures the line 7 on the backseam from 1 to 6, and from there down as far as fashion dictates for the length of the coat. He then measures the line 8 from the point 6 on the back to the point 5 on the front .or breast, and line 9 from 2 at the shoulderseam to 5 at the breast, the line 10 from the shoulder-seam 3 to the front breast-mark, 5, and the line 11 from 4 to 5.

As described, the measure has been applied to one side of the body (the right) alone. It will be understood that the measure is alike on both sides, and is simply reversed, and the same operation gone through with 011 the opposite (or left) side of the body, which will establish two breast-marks, number 5,. and making the measurement on line 12 between the same, and, dividing by two, will give the center line of the coat or vest at the front.

Ice

'1 to 6 having been established, and the tapemeasurements correctly made and then by the V fastidious could ask for.

By this system of measurement and use of my invention it is a matter of indifference as to the form of the person to be fitted, and whether the person be stooped, hump-backed, ornarrow back and full-breasted. The'points instrument transferred to the material, these things insure that where fullness, or the reverse, is required it will be given, and the fit will be, when completed, all that the most I am aware that measures somewhat sim ilarin form to my invention have been used by tailors; but they have not been, as far as I am aware, used for the establishment of certain fixed points from and to whiohall the other measurements are tributary in securing a good fitting suit, nor were they adapted to such purpose. The same system is applicable to the measurement for vest and pantaloons, and its application will be understood by an expert.

I find a convenient size for the measure to be as follows: blade A, thirty-four inches long by two and one-half inches wide; arm 13, projecting seven and one-half inches from the back of the blade A and at a point six inches from the upper end of A measured ,upon its front" unobstructed edge, the back edge of the blade ting and the invention whereby it is made practicable, I desire to claim as follows: A tailors measure composed of a-flexible blade, A, strap A buckle A or its equivalent, short armB, plumb-line B, curved c011- nection 0, having a notch, O, and triangular aperture D, in combination with a plumb-bob, E, or its equivalent, the whole adapted to be applied to the person to be measured and to the material to be cut, in the manner and for the purpose specifieda JOHN R. BEOHTEL; Witnesses:

THOMAS P, KINSEY,

F. PEIROE HUMMEL. 

